Having found a place at the center of many luxurious dining tables since the late 1700s, silver epergnes have been the focal point of gracious dining.
They help celebrate the seasons through the display of fruits, nuts and flowers.  
This example belongs to the Smith family of Springdale. I have seen it piled with pink and white camellias from their yard as well as filled with fruit at other seasons.
The Smith’s epergne was made about 1910. It can be used as a candelabra or for flowers, fruit and candles at the same time which is truly beautiful.
Early examples would feature dried fruit, candied fruits, sugared almonds, nuts, sugared grapes and the ultimate desire of the hostess of the 18th century- the then rare and exotic pineapple.
The epergne offered these treats to guests. It was the height of hospitality to have these within the easy grasp.
The epergnes I grew up with often held Easter candy, pecans, gum drops and hard candy. You must remember the tins of hard candy favored by our mothers and grandmothers that stuck fast to their candy jars.
The modern-day candy jars we remember functioned just like the epergne; a display of sweet treats available to guests or the child who could not resist one more.
We often display small 2-bite candied orange peel cookies. The center holds oranges to enhance the overall theme.
Charleston Two Bite Citrus Cookies
Scrub the skin of 5 oranges.  You will use the skin so pay careful attention to cleaning.
Remove the orange rinds in large sections.  This is easiest to accomplish by cutting the oranges in quarters.  Squeeze the juice into a measuring cup, reserving one cup and using the rest in something else.
In a heavy bottom pot, place 3 cups of white granulated sugar and orange juice.  
Using kitchen shears, cut the rind into 1/8” thin strips and then cut strips in half.  Add them all to the mixture of sugar and orange juice. Add 1/2 cup of tap water.
Boil until juice and sugar attach to the orange rind and form a sugar crust.  This will be hot. It takes about 10-15 minutes.
Remove the orange ring using tongs and lay on wax paper to cool. If your orange rind clumps, let it cool, then chop it into pieces about the size of a chocolate chip.
Combine 3 cups self rising flour, 1 cup granulated sugar and 1 stick melted butter, adding 1/2 cup milk to form a soft dough.
Add 1 cup of finely chopped pecans or walnuts and the orange rind.
Form small balls the size of large gumballs. Roll each ball in white granulated sugar. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet and press down with the bottom of a glass to about 1/2 their thickness.
Bake at 350° only 4 to 5 minutes to avoid burning sugar. Cool on a wire rack.
These cookies were originally made in my family as far back as 1700.  I have recipes from the time where fruit was often preserved.  This was the way we preserved fruit for fruit cake. It makes all the difference to ‘candy’ the fruit yourself.
Consider the lesson of the epergne to offering the best of what the season brings to family and friends.  Even if you do not have a silver centerpiece, peaches or strawberries from Lexington, apples from Hendersonville or any of nature’s bounty looks beautiful in a wooden or crystal punch bowl.  
Celebrating the seasons through food has a timeless, generational appeal. 

Coming Soon: Charleston holiday recipes for you to try in your home.